PHARWALA FORT RAWALPINDI PAKISTAN LAST BASTION OF GAKHAR
It was Pharwala fort Rawalpindi Pakistan, the last bastion of Gakhar where Muqarrab Khan in 1826, made his unsuccessful stand to protect 700 years of Gakhar Rule against the Sikhs. This was a long time coming since Mughals, the Masters of Gakhars, were on a decline by then.
The story of Pharwala fort starts in the tenth century with the arrival of Kai Gohar Gakhar with Mahmud of Ghazni to the area. Pharwala Fort was then established upon an old Hindu fortification. Even now there are several carved boulders inside the fort that have no reason to be there. Pharwala Fort was chosen as a site at the foot hills of Himalayas, overlooking the plateau of Rawalpindi up to Kallar Syedan.



Gakhars stayed loyal to Mughals and irritated Sher Shah Suri who built his own Rohtas Fort and let them live their marauding ways. Eventually Sikhs’ took over and evicted all the significant Gakhars’ from their bastion. English took over from the Sikhs’ and Gakhars lost their power completely.





We were given a two course desi meal, special sweet dish and an exclusive tour of the fort.We went through the Begum Gate, name after the philanthropic wife Mai Mungo or Kamro of Hathi Khan. Mai Mango built a mosque close by as well.

We then walked all the way to the Bohar Gate, with the mystical Banyan tree with hundreds of years old graves and a watering hole, probably for the cavalry.
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The hill behind the fort is so high that we could see all of Islamabad and Kahuta at the same time. Then came the sentry stations at the periphery walls followed by Hathi Gate.

The Hathi gate opened up into another stream. Next we walked up to a very unusual monument – a 10 foot boulder with the edges carved upwards. The local thought these were Hindu temple relics but I wouldn’t know.
Further on we reached Lashkari Gate where they hung their dissidents and rivals. Across soan river was the tomb of Muqarrab Khan, withering away.

Foreigners used to visit this site in the 70s but have since then stopped coming over as an NOC is now required. There are several sensitive government sites at a certain distance from the place.
We had our fill of Desi Chicken and pure wheat bread and bid farewell to our lovely host — Mehrab Khan Kiyani. The Kiyani is a recent modification made by the tribe to fit in easily.

The Gakhar villagers’ say themselves that they are ‘kora (fierce)’ people that’s why neighboring ‘kammi (low caste)’ don’t like them. I wouldn’t know anything about that except that the trip was worth it.
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